That comes with a factor two fall, where the leader falls off above the belay, without any intermediate gear, and falls twice as far as the amount of rope in use. Unpleasant for the falling climber, especially if s/he hits something on the way down, but nowehere near the worst case scenario for force on the ATC. The distance s/he falls is equal to the total amount of rope in use: fall factor 1. Are you familier with the concept of fall factors? In this case, the unfortunate second climbs all the way up to the stance, without the belayer taking in any rope whatsoever, then falls all the way back down again. I assume we're talking about a follower being belayed with ATC in guide/autoblocking mode? Then even the most determinedly incompetent/malicious belayer cannot produce more than a factor one fall. Say if the belayer did not take in slack while the climber was climbing and took a large fall, how much force would be exerted on the ATC? I imagine 2 kN would be pretty easy for a dropped follower to achieve, so anybody belaying two followers simultaneously on skinny double ropes evidently needs to pay attention. With an 8mm rope it's a little more alarming device jams at 2 kN, locking fails at 4 kN. I don't know how to work out how much of a fall the second would have to take to get to 4.8 kN, but probably quite a bit s/he certainly ain't getting to nine. With a 10mm rope the ATC jams severely at 4.8 kN, breaks the rope at 9 kN. Quick summary: the device itself doesn't fail or suffer damage. Not my idea of a reliable roped-solo device! Residual load 0.7kNĪll with Petzl Attache 12mm round profile karabiner. No second fail mode, rope sheath cut at ca 9kN.ĪTC Guide. Still need to take your Prusiks!ĪTC Guide. At this point the holding power drops off considerably but not catastrophically, though pretty near!Įasy to release, just unclip the krab when unweighted. Take your Prusiks.Īpply yet more load and the trapped rope where it crosses the tensioned rope goes down through the slot with a bang. The trapped rope escapes sideways from under the tensioned rope and gets trapped between the tensioned rope and the side of the slot.This is very difficult to free off and you have to dismantle everything and twist the locking krab brutally to release the rope. Scroll down to the test done by Jim Titt. Aha! I knew I'd read something about this somewhere, and here it is.
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